Dandy (mode)

Disambig bordered fade.svg For alternative betydninger, se Dandy. (Se også artikler, som begynder med Dandy)

Dandy er et engelsk ord for 'spradebasse', 'laps' eller 'modeløve', altså en let nedsættende betegnelse på en mand, som har overdrevent elegante og moderne klæder og gerne er selvoptaget og ødsel.

Baggrund og brug

Beau Brummell (1778–1840), britisk kongeven og dandy iført moderigtig jakke, smalle klapbukser, overdådig kravat og lange støvler ca. 1805. Han skal have indført dandyism i Londons overklasse i Regencytiden.

Ordet kom til i 1700-tallet i London og Paris, med lidt forskellige fremtoninger. I London er en dandy en mand fra middelklassen som forsøger at snyde sine omgivelser til at tro at han tilhører aristokratiet med sin klædestil og elegance. En vis overdrivelse i tøjet og i sin opførsel blev sagt at være et typisk kendetegn på en dandy. Dandy blev ofte benyttet synonymt med snob.

Et par dandies, modelapser, i Paris ca. 1830, iført høj hat, frakke og jaket i timeglasformet facon.

Allerede mod slutningen af 1700-tallet anslog dandyen tonen i moden. Et af de vigtigste indslag i en dandys tøjstil var den sorte jaket og høj hat. En rigtig dandy blev karakteriseret af koldblodighed, høvisk næsvished, nonchalance, kold sarkasme, ironi, god smag og elegance.

Joachim Murat (1767–1815), en marschal som var gift med kejser Napoleon 1.s yngre søster Caroline Bonaparte og i 1808 blev udnævnt af Napoleon til konge af Napoli, blev i England omtalt som The Dandy King på grund af hans forkærlighed for pynt og dekorationer.[1]

På engelsk har dandy også betydningen 'finfint', 'toppen'» (hverdagssprog siden cirka 1785 ifølge Dictionary of American slang). Ordet dandy forekommer også i en populær amerikansk folkemelodi fra midten af 1700-tallet - Yankee Doodle Dandy. I 1942 vandt skuespilleren James Cagney en Oscar for sine rolle i filmen med samme navn.

Eksempler

Galleri

Litteratur

  • Barbey d'Aurevilly, Jules: Of Dandyism and of George Brummell. Translated by Douglas Ainslie. New York: PAJ Publications, 1988.
  • Carassus, Émile: Le Mythe du Dandy 1971.
  • Espartaco Carlos: Eduardo Sanguinetti: The Experience of Limits,(Ediciones de Arte Gaglianone, first published 1989) ISBN 950-9004-98-7.
  • Carlyle, Thomas: Sartor Resartus. In A Carlyle Reader: Selections from the Writings of Thomas Carlyle. Edited by G.B. Tennyson. London: Cambridge University Press, 1984.
  • Jesse, Captain William: The Life of Beau Brummell. London: The Navarre Society Limited, 1927.
  • Lytton, Edward Bulwer, Lord Lytton: Pelham or the Adventures of a Gentleman. Edited by Jerome McGann. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1972.
  • Moers, Ellen: The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm. London: Secker and Warburg, 1960.
  • Murray, Venetia: An Elegant Madness: High Society in Regency England. New York: Viking, 1998.
  • Nicolay, Claire: Origins and Reception of Regency Dandyism: Brummell to Baudelaire. Ph. D. diss., Loyola U of Chicago, 1998.
  • Prevost, John C.: Le Dandysme en France (1817–1839) (Geneva and Paris) 1957.
  • Rodgers, Nigel: The Dandy: Peacock or Enigma? (London) 2012
  • Stanton, Domna: The Aristocrat as Art 1980.
  • Wharton, Grace and Philip: Wits and Beaux of Society. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1861.

Se også

Referencer

  1. ^ John C. Prevost; Le Dandysme en France (1817-1839), Genève og Paris (1957).

Eksterne henvisninger

Autoritetsdata

Medier brugt på denne side

Dizzy-grant.jpg
Benjamin Disraeli painted by Francis Grant in 1852 when the subject was 48, but depicting him as a young man in the costume of the 1820s.
Wolfgang-amadeus-mozart 1.jpg

This posthumous portrait of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was painted by Barbara Kraft at the request of Joseph Sonnleithner in 1819, long after Mozart died. Sonnleithner, who was making a "collection of portraits in oils of well-known composers" (Deutsch) wrote to Mozart's still-living sister Maria Anna ("Nannerl"), asking her to lend a picture to Kraft (a well-known artist working in Salzburg). Here is part of Nannerl's reply:

... [her friend ] Councillor von Drossdick ... sent the artist to me to see all 3 [of my] pictures [of Mozart], the one that was painted when he came back from the Italian journey is the oldest, he was then just 16 years old, but as he had just got up from a serious illness, the picture looks sickly and very yellow; the picture in the family portrait when he was 22 years old is very good, and the miniature, when he was 26 years old, is the most recent I have, I therefore shewed this one to the painter first; it seemed to me from her silence that is would not be very easy to enlarge it, I therefore had to shew her the family portrait and the other one, too. ... she wants to take her copy from the family portrait and introduce only those features from the small picture which make him look somewhat older than in the big picture."

Deutsch identifies the three pictures as:

  1. "Perhaps" the portrait by Knoller, Milan 1773. [1]
  2. The family portrait by della Croce.
  3. A lost small version of the famous portrait by Joseph Lange.
For present purposes, this implies that Kraft painted this with some basis to go on (and not completely out of her head, as the painter of this ridiculous picture did). Also, it tells us that Nannerl thought that the della Croce picture was "very good".
Andy Warhol 1975.jpg
Portrait of the American artist Andy Warhol at his exhibition dedicated to Black transvestites in the US. Ferrara, November 1975
BrummellDighton1805.jpg

George "Beau" Brummell, watercolor by Richard Dighton (1805)

Caricature of Beau Brummell done as a print by Robert Dighton, 1805.
Oscar Wilde portrait by Napoleon Sarony - albumen.jpg
Three quarter length portrait of Oscar Wilde(en) by Napoleon Sarony(en). 1 photographic print on card mount : albumen.